Why the nautilus is inspiring modern jewelry designers

The sea and her spoils have captivated humans for centuries. Among them, the chambered nautilus shell has long stood out as a small natural wonder (and perhaps, a symbol of perfection). The ancient Greeks were especially taken with its elegant, ever‑expanding spiral, weaving its form into their art and ornamentation. This cephalopod has even left its imprint on our language: its name comes from the Greek nautilos, meaning “sailor.” But the nautilus shell’s geometry isn’t relegated to designs of antiquity. It continues to shape contemporary works. Jewelry designers Sophie Buhai, Julia “JuJu” Ferentinos of JuJu Vera, and Silvia Dusci of Le Sundial have each introduced nautilus‑inspired pieces into their collections. Beyond their shared love for the nautilus, these designers are connected by a reverence for history, a collector’s curiosity, and a commitment to sustainable craftsmanship.

Sophie Buhai

Sophie Buhai is an American designer known for her sculptural, modernist jewelry. Her work began taking shape during a 2014 artist residency at Villa Lena in Italy, where she started crafting pieces from found materials and sharing them on Instagram to enthusiastic response, especially from fans of her earlier fashion label, Vena Cava.

In 2015, she returned to Los Angeles and launched her namesake line, partnering with local artisans skilled in traditional techniques. Today, her brand spans experimental seasonal designs, a core permanent collection, and limited‑edition fine jewelry and functional objects that double as small sculptures.

A larger version of our Small Nautilus Ring inspired by the shape of a shell. Sophie Buhai © 2026

Marine creatures are a recurring motif in Sophie Buhai’s work. The Nautilus Collection is a miniature model of mid-century modern architecture, which merges shell-inspired forms with functional, 1950s-1960s design principles. A notable example is the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum in New York City by architect Frank Lloyd Wright. A more contemporary iteration is the Nautilus House in Naucalpan, Mexico by architect Javier Senosiain, which celebrates organic design.

Buhai’s Nautilus Ring is a band crowned with a delicate spiral, available in sterling silver or gold vermeil. Her work is distinctive for its minimalist forms, surrealist influences, and a commitment to craftsmanship and sustainability. Not surprisingly, her jewelry can be found at notable design museums like the Cooper Hewitt Smithsonian Design Museum, and high-end boutiques such as Net-a-Porter and Dover Street Market.

Website: sophiebuhai.com

Instagram: sophiebuhai

Julia “JuJu” Ferentinos

For Julia Ferentinos, jewelry should carry emotional weight as well as aesthetic presence. Her JuJu Vera fine silver jewelry and accessories reflect this approach. Starting as a vintage dealer, Ferentinos sourced one-of-a-kind pieces from flea markets around the world for editorials, films, and private clients. Her work blends historical inspiration with contemporary craftsmanship, drawing on her background in antiques sourcing and her Greco-Roman heritage.¹

Statement silhouettes rooted in history, reimagined in modern silver. JuJu Vera balances bold form with refined artistry. ©️ JUJU VERA NEW YORK

Though not formally trained as a jeweler, Ferentinos approaches design like a sculptor, focusing on shape, proportion, and how her works interact with the body. She shares her flea market finds and creative designs on her social media channels so fans can glean her inspirational sources. Her distinct aesthetic also caught the attention of Moda Operandi chief brand officer Lauren Santo Domingo.

JuJu Vera’s debut collection unfolds like a modern ode to antiquity. The Minoans, Bronze Age artisans of ancient Crete, crafted pottery with fluid depictions of local sea life, including the nautilus. Echoes of these sinuous motifs emerge in the oversized Eliza earrings, available in sterling silver and 14k gold vermeil, whose tassels and sweeping curves recall the movement and ornament of Minoan design. The Olympia armband, available in polished white bronze or brass, continues this dialogue with antiquity. Its substantial, sculptural form is softened by two refined spiral details, a subtle nod to the nautilus.

Website: https://jujuvera.com

Instagram: jujuverastudio

Silvia Dusci

NAUTILUS TIGER EYE COLLAR. LE SUNDIAL S.R.L

Founder of jewelry brand Le Sundial Silvia Dusci focuses on timeless beauty, a sense of proportion, and quiet proportion from her Milan-based studio. Dusci understands jewelry can speak volumes without uttering a word. She started her career in event planning at a Milanese communications agency, where she learned how brands create a narrative.

As a break from the daily clamor, she began designing jewelry as a meditative approach. Dusci’s collections for Le Sundial are inspired by Art Deco sensibility and Italian artistry. The brand draws heavily on the movement’s design language of strong geometry, architectural curves, and an enduring sense of form.

Dusci curates a “Visual Diary” sharing the artists, objects, and muses that inspire her work. This includes the artisans and family-owned businesses of Milan with whom she collaborates to produce Le Sundial works. Her jewelry embodies sprezzatura- the Italian term for effortless grace – by combining simplicity with high-end materials such as sterling silver, onyx, and pearls. One of the brand’s signature designs is the Nautilus Necklace, a bold beaded collar anchored by a sterling-silver nautilus pendant. Its spiraling shell motif reflects the brand’s Art Deco influence. Each necklace is handmade in Italy and offered through luxury retailers such as Selfridges, Moda Operandi, and Lyst in stone variations, including onyx, tiger’s eye, red jasper, crystal, and shell.

Website: lesundial.com

Instagram: lesundial

A Timeless Muse

Across centuries, the nautilus has held its place as a lasting source of fascination. Its spiraling form has been a bridge between mathematics, mythology, and marine mystery. Today, designers like Buhai, Ferentinos, and Dusci carry that thread forward, reimagining the nautilus through their own lenses as well as history, architecture, and sculptural craft. And just like the shells you’d tuck carefully into a beach bag, your nautilus‑inspired jewelry deserves thoughtful protection. Along with adding it to an insurance policy such as the Berkley One Collectible Suite, you might also consider investing in a proper jewelry safe.

Written by Abby Placik

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Berkley One is an insurance provider for modern, sophisticated individuals and families. We’re redefining insurance with technology, innovation, expertise and the backing of Berkley, one of the nation’s premier insurance providers. Offering customized options for homes, automobiles, fine art, collectibles, liability, recreational marine and collector vehicles, we give clients the confidence to move forward and live their adventure.